b"AROUND THE WORLD | MONACOThe Ireland Fund of Monaco Residential BursariesAwarded annually, The Ireland Fund of Monaco ResidentialBursaries were established to enable writers born or livingin Ireland to pursue a current project during a one-monthresidency at the Princess Grace Irish Library in Monaco.Wearepleasedtopresentthispersonalreflectionof Professor Ronach u gin on her experience in Monaco. About the AuthorRonach u gin, MA, PhD (National University of Ireland), is Director of theNational Folklore Collection, University College Dublin. She has publishednumerous articles on traditional song and music and has lectured widelyon the subject.As a folklorist it was the ideal time to experience some of the local traditions that straddle St Patrick's Day and the end of the Lenten seasonto include the Easter celebrations in Monaco. In search of Mongasquetradition and lore, I experienced a sense of empathy with what might betermed the minority Mongasque expression of identity in numerous ways.Much of this reminded me of home in Ireland. Bi-lingual street signs indicated the dual languages within the society. Restaurants such as For me in Monaco, the universal nature of folk belief and of religious L'Ostrega de Mnegu at the Place dArmes emphasised a sense of pride celebration was affirmed. The opportunity afforded to me by the Irelandin language and in traditional, local food. Irish tradition mingled with the Fund of Monaco to pursue research and experience aspects of life andMongasque when the lights on the Princes Palace shone green for St. tradition in Monaco is greatly appreciated. The day-to-day experience ofPatrick's Day. As might be expected, other events had been organised by life at the Princess Grace Irish Library was greatly enhanced by Judiththe Princess Grace Irish Library for this day which included the music of Gantley, Graldine Lance, Sle Jackson and Francis O'Hara in particular.Cr Mhaigh Eo and harmonised songs of the group CODA. They were very Another highlight of my visit was my discussion with students of thewell received and these events were reminders of the global nature that local senior high schoolLyce Albert Ierwho shared some of their has become of the St. Patrick's Day celebrations.customs, beliefs and lore with me. They are proud of the local saint, SaintA highlight of my stay was something that appeared to be very oldDevote, and were very interested in Irish, Irish-English and Irish tradition.indeed and should really only be experienced live sur le rocher. TheWe compared notes on belief associated with Friday the thirteenth, ongathering for the Procession de Pnitents took place on the evening of matters of luck and ill-luck of the black cat and we agreed that all this isGood Friday. Early on in the course of my visit I had been told of this holy probably part of a tradition which may well be hundreds of years old. Theweek procession and I looked forward to it. When I arrived, an atmosphere Monaco experience at the Princess Grace Irish Library was an enriching,of anticipated ritual was evident on the rock around the area of the memorable experience which will remain with me for a long time. Chapelle de la Misricorde before the procession began. A voice of Professor Ronach u ginauthority called out Je cherche un pnitent and gave orders such as'Avancez' as participants gathered before the procession began. The sombre music which accompanied the procession of centurions on horseback, the nuns, priests, brothers, friars and children, all suitably attired, were mindful of the Passion of Good Friday. connect2013 | 103"